Who doesn’t love Rachael Ray?

Even our dogs love The Rachael for her dog food. Our fluff balls refuse to cook, but they are talented eaters.

My observation is that many humans don’t cook either, but we do like to watch someone else do it. Some of us enjoy watching Rachael Ray use those nostalgic appliances in her television kitchen. For many viewers it brings back kitchen memories but not necessarily of mom’s cooking.

What is it about Rachael’s sky-blue refrigerator? Well, there are homeowners who crave that retro look and buy those old time appliances either as a whimsical accent in a modern kitchen or as the centerpiece in a full-scale retro renovation. Rachael’s “collection” design is of the immediate post-war era, when a streamlined but softer and more rounded look was the norm. The style references Art-Deco and is chrome festooned. Rachael actually cheats a bit as her appliances are “brand-new-retro.” She evidently wants today’s frost-free feature and better insulation. Such a sissy.

Many original appliances from the 1940s and 50s still seem to be desired too. As many mid-century modern houses are being restored to their original condition, these appliances fit right in. Any number of companies sell reconditioned oldies with new gaskets, hinges and other parts. These ice-boxes don’t have to run 24/7 so they’re not the big energy hogs. Plus the essential core parts are built in the USA and will chug on forever with just a bit of love. And money. And yes, you do have to manually defrost but isn’t that why your mother-in-law lives with you?

Moving along, the post-war consumer was ready for new design directions. For example, the radical 1953 Philco “V” was the only refrigerator (ever!) with a door that opened to either side. However the lethal combination of being expensive and odd, along with the oh-so-minor problem of the door sometimes falling off, meant that in about 18 months the “V” vamoosed. Now they fetch $1,200 and are being sought and bought. Also prized are vintage Kelvinator, Coldspot and Westinghouse beauties.

Here comes your design history tutorial: If you crave authentic, high-style 1960s appliances, you may now salivate with desire. Meet the Sheer Look appliance line. The Sheer Look was a huge turning point in American product design.

Out with the rounded-off pre-war shapes. In with a new direction from General Motors in 1956. Sharp and crisp. Yes kiddies, the General Motors that made your father’s Oldsmobile also made dad’s Frigidaire brand appliances. Number one in sales.

To paraphrase Arthur Pulos’ great book, The American Design Adventure 1940-1975. “By the late 1950s…  design of major appliances was moving away from the softer streamline era shapes (1940s) and toward sharp rectilinear forms.” Pulos points out that manufacturers began using better insulation, which allowed thinner, pre-painted, sheet steel. Ergo, sharper edges. “Moreover, rectangular boxes were in harmony with the International Style of architecture and suitable as built-ins. (Think Bauhaus.)

A 1959 survey by the Illinois Institute of Technology rated the Sheer Look in the top 10 designs. Right there with the iconic Barcelona chair. This was a major change in design and influenced the whole look of the new kitchen through the 60s.

Frigidare's "Kitchen of Tomorrow" 1956

So you students who are still awake, Frigidaire’s Dream Kitchen 1956 featuring the Sheer Look was a ta-da moment. The ad agency that did much of GM’s car advertisements (same guys gave us the Mr. Clean jingle) attempted to join the haute couture fashion world with the four walls of the kitchen. Fashion models in Oleg Cassini’s Sheer Look outfits also did the Sheer Look gesture in elbow length gloves. (Make an upside down “L” with your finger tips together, imitating the sharp right angle corners of the appliances!)

Again, wet blanket Pulos: “the new look was actually generated by technological advances rather than fashion – it was associated with fashion in order to make it more palatable to the public.” 

This new design direction of the clean Sheer Look, sitting in the heart of the home, increased Americas’ awareness about design and certainly reflected the post war optimism and sense of progress. And it radically changed the look of America’s kitchen. Sadly, I haven’t been able to locate a Sheer Look unit in a tricked-out convenient version. But, it you want an authentic 1960 kitchen with a genuine nostalgic refrigerator, it looks like your fire-breathing mother-in-law is going to have to keep defrosting.

According to a recent Time magazine issue, 41% of American two-year olds’ daily vegetable calories come from French fries. Clearly, too many families have abandoned the produce aisle for the drive through line.

Enter author and mother Pragna Parmita to restore discipline and sanity to meal planning for youngsters. Vegebaby as the title implies advocates a vegetarian diet for a healthy body, bright mind, and sweet disposition. What distinguishes Vegebaby from others in this genre is its prescriptive philosophy. Eating the right foods in the right combinations can help alleviate many conditions that vex parents and trouble tots, such as constipation or frequent infections.

Parmita, however, is neither a physician or nutritionist. Her credibility rests on careful observations of her two sons eating habits supplemented with professional consultations and research. The small sample size and unattributed “foods that heal” claims gave me pause, though she was correct to point out that vegetable iron differs from animal, or “heme”, iron in how it is absorbed by the body.

My major criticism concerns more practical issues, such as expense. To make all of Vegebaby’s recipes for parathas, a versatile Indian flatbread stuffed with vegetables and spices, will require whole wheat flour, barley flour, rice flour, flaxseed meal, soy flour—not to mention carom seeds, asafetida, jaggery, and fenugreek leaves (fenugreek gives lamb saag its distinctiveness). Many Vegebaby hot soups are made in a pressure cooker. Do you have the counter space for yet another cooking appliance?

Good cookbook layout and design should unobtrusively carry content on its shoulders. Vegebaby’s extensive use of red in backgrounds, margins, and typefaces was annpying. Overworked and outsized graphic elements sometimes undermined legibility. Judicious photo editing alone could have shrunk this tome into a more manageable size.

Busy households may find a modest return from Vegebaby’s more conventional recipes (like the one below) where the majority ingredients are readily available from the megamart. Parents may also want to cherry-pick recipes and preparations that offer relief for common childhood ailments like indigestion. It is unlikely, however, that Parmita will convince harried Western moms to turn their pantries into apothecaries and consistently cook complex foods for their children that don’t resemble their own lived experience and traditions.

Despite my reservations, Vegebaby does contain flavorful soups, rice dishes, sandwiches, desserts, and the like that a loving parent would be pleased to serve his/her child. The following recipe contains vitamins A, B, C, K, minerals, and Omega-3 fatty acids to optimize growth and promote better sleep. Carrots and peas are two of Fauna’s favorites.

Carrot and Fresh Green Pea Soup

Cream:

½ cup sour cream, 2 teaspoons each orange juice and zest.

Soup:

1 tablespoon canola oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 ½ cups vegetable stock

2 small cups fresh green peas

2 carrots, chopped into ½ inch pieces

1 tablespoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 ½ cups milk

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Cream:

mix all ingredients together. Set aside.

Soup:

Steam the carrots separately. Set aside. Heat the oil in a pan. Add mustard seeds, peas, and garlic. Saute until tender. Stir in vegetable stock and bring to a boil on high heat. Lower the heat and cook until peas are soft. Process in a blender for a smooth puree. Sieve and transfer puree to the pan. Add the carrots, sugar, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Mix well and stir in the milk. Simmer until heated through. Remove from heat and top with a dollop of cream to serve. Makes three servings.

Vegebaby—Recipes for Happy Healthy Children by Pragna Parmita. Self-published. 2011. 380 pages. $19.99.

Every home cook who frequently gets invited out to group celebrations should have a repertoire of about five go-to dishes suitable for potluck parties.

Ideally, these dishes should be ones that can be enjoyed at room temperature and have enough structure to stand up to being displayed on a buffet table for a length of time. No wilting salads. You want a recipe that feeds 10-12 and it’s always practical if you can bring your dish in the same pan you cooked, baked or assembled the recipe in.

Over the years, I’ve found that a reliable potato, rice or macaroni casserole works just fine. A pan of seasonal roasted vegetables is usually a winner. Find the right chili recipe and you’re golden. Of course, a platter of fried chicken legs arranged attractively on a platter will disappear in no time. For dessert a tried-and-true sheet cake is a good idea along with either bar cookies or brownies. But, they must be the best brownies you’ve ever tasted. The idea is to come up with five things that become your signature dishes – foods you are comfortable being identified with. Practice on your family and close friends.

My sister-in-law Marilyn introduced a potluck favorite to our family about 30 years ago. Now, as our family is spread out all over the globe second generations of family cooks make it and confidently bring this dish to church suppers, book club dinners, dine-around neighborhood nights, brunch, and other places where Auntie Marilyn’s Delmonico Potatoes are always welcome. What I particularly prize about this dish is that its equally popular with men, women and children. If you add this recipe to your potluck all-stars, you can serve it with pride and the knowledge that there will be no leftovers. Although, on the occasions that I’ve made this potato dish for a holiday meal at home, my husband cheerfully eats leftover Delmonico Potatoes straight from the refrigerator the morning after.

Aunt Marilyn’s Delmonico Potatoes

10 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into medium cubes

Cheese Sauce:

6 tablespoons of butter

6 tablespoons of flour

2 cups milk

3/4 package of Cracker Barrel Vermont Cheddar Cheese, cut up or shredded

1 jar of Kraft Old English Cheese

Dash salt, pepper and dry mustard

1 cup crushed Ritz crackers

Extra pats of butter for topping

Grease (with Pam or butter) an oblong baking pan. Boil or microwave potatoes until soft, not mushy. Drain and set aside in a large mixing bowl. Blend butter and flour in a saucepan over medium heat. Add milk slowly. Add cheeses and blend until melted. Pour over potatoes and add seasonings. Turn the mixture into the greased baking pan and top with cracker crumbs and pats of butter. Bake uncovered at 350-degrees for about 40 minutes until brown and bubbly.

Trying to manage her emotions as her beloved mother slips farther away into dementia, Lee Clayton Roper decided to collaborate on a book of recipes called A Well-Seasoned Kitchen along with mom, Sally Clayton, who died just as this book was in its final pre-publication phase. Consequently, this  beautifully photographed hard cover book is more than the sum of its culinary ingredients. It’s a memoir and an homage to Sally Clayton, whom her daughter admires as a first-rate hostess, home cook, party planner and wonderful mother who made every family meal a special occasion and every birthday truly a celebration to remember.

And remember the author does. This book contains a section on her mother’s menus, party tips, international travel notes, photos of mother in action in the kitchen or dining room. And, of course, there are those time-tested recipes that Roper’s mother relied on for holiday gatherings, entertaining dad’s clients, bridge luncheons, Sunday buffets, and more.

Because of the time period that Sally Clayton (Kentucky born, raised her family in Colorado) was active in her kitchen, there’s a retro aspect to many of her recipes (canned soups, frozen vegetables) that include golden oldies such as Chicken Kiev, stuffed tomatoes, layered salads with lots of mayonnaise, Pavlova, green bean casserole and Veal Stroganoff. But then daughter takes over with recipes for Parmesan polenta, new potatoes with truffle oil, smoothies and other more contemporary-sounding preparations.

So the book is a truly a combined effort that stretches across generations and includes favorite dishes from aunts and grandmothers too. The reader of A Well-Seasoned Kitchen truly gets the sense of how enjoyable and important was this loving process for mother and daughter. A portion of the proceeds from A Well-Seasoned Kitchen cookbook sales are being donated to the Alzheimer’s Association.

Kentucky Corn Pudding

(“This was one of Mom’s signature dishes. The recipe came from her mother, Nama, and was passed to all her grandchildren.”) Serves 6.

3 eggs

2 cups corn (4 ears fresh corn or 2 packages frozen, thawed slightly)

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons flour

2 cups whole milk

2 tablespoons butter, melted

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place eggs, corn, sugar, salt and flour in a blender and blend until barely blended (you should have some whole corn kernels). Pour in to 7×11-inch glass baking dish. Heat milk over high heat until slightly scalded and add to casserole, mixing well. Pour melted butter over the top (do not stir). Place casserole dish in a larger glass dish that is half full of hot water. Bake for 1 to 1/½ hours, stirring from 2 or 3 times from the bottom during baking.

(Note: If pudding gets watery at the end, leave in the oven for a few more minutes. Take out and let sit for a few minutes, stir, then let it sit a minute or two more. Most of the excess water should be absorbed.)

(A Well-Seasoned Kitchen by Lee Clayton Roper. Photographs by Laurie Smith and food styling by Erica McNeish. MCL Publishing. $34.95. www.seasonedkitchen.com)

May is National Celiac Awareness Month, a good time to learn more about this autoimmune disease and the gluten-free food revolution.

There are some three million people in the United States who have celiac sprue. They require a gluten-free diet. Until recently dining out was a nightmare for these people since gluten-free meals hardly existed and chefs weren’t knowledgeable about adaptive techniques. Cooking at home wasn’t any better because wheat-alternative products and ingredients were so limited. That’s all changing.

From haute cuisine palaces to casual-dining chains such Carrabba’s Italian Grill and Outback Steakhouse to neighborhood bakeries and pocket eateries, going gluten-free is going global. Today the gluten-free food market is a $2.6 billion industry and demand for gluten-free foods and products has grown at an average rate of 28 percent annually.

Part of this food revolution is happening in the cookbook world. New ones come out regularly that make cooking gluten-free at home enjoyable and creative. One book that I especially like is called 150 Best Gluten-Free Muffin Recipes by Camilla Saulsbury, (see recipes below). Along with easy-to make recipes for sweet and savory muffins and loaf breads, the author offers gluten-free cooking tips for measuring, storing, substituting and finding specialty ingredients you’ll need for gluten-free baking at home. Some of these ingredients are rice flour, amaranth flour, sorghum flour, tapioca starch, gluten-free baking powder, xanthan gum and others. Stock your pantry, follow the directions in this book and get ready for some good eating.

People with celiac sprue suffer from an inherited autoimmune disease that damages the small intestine and interferes with food absorption. Symptoms include seizures, skin disorders, abdominal pain, anemia and malnutrition. Complications include miscarriage, cancer and osteoporosis. More women are affected than men. Blood tests and an intestinal biopsy can identify the disease. There are no drugs to treat celiac disease.

The “cure” is a life-long gluten-free diet. Why is gluten the villain?  Gluten is a protein composite found in foods processed from wheat and related grains including barley and rye. Gluten gives elasticity to dough, helping it to rise and to keep its shape and giving it a chewy texture. But it’s virtually poison to people with celiac disease.

When wheat, rye and barley are eliminated from baking ingredients, what is substituted? Gluten-free bakers uses grains such millet and sorghum. Xanthan gum is the gluten substitute. It’s costly so prices of gluten-free baked goods are usually higher than those made with gluten.

It’s not just people with a gluten intolerance who are opting to eliminate gluten from their diet. Many people believe a gluten-free diet helps lessen arthritis pain and parents of children with autism have reported good results when they switch their children to a totally gluten-free diet. Many people with skin allergies also opt for gluten-free.

King Arthur Flour produces a collection of gluten-free mixes including bread, pizza crust, cookie and brownie, muffin and pancake mixes and one for chocolate cake. The company also makes gluten-free flour for scratch baking. Idaho Outpost makes a line of gluten-free soup mixes.

Hanover, the popular snack maker whose pretzels have been a favorite since 1909, now makes a line of gluten-free pretzel sticks, mini pretzels, veggie chips, white cheddar cheese chips and sea salt chips. Conte offers a line of gluten-free pastas and pizzas.  Coconut Bliss produces a gluten-free collection of ice cream products and Hero Nutritionals has a full line of gluten-free vitamins.

If you’re traveling this summer, check out GlutenFreeTravelSite.com which a comprehensive listing of gluten-free menus offered by national and regional chains so that vacationers can pick their restaurant stops before they hit the road. Also, parents of children with celiac disease have organized blog sites and are sharing lifestyle choices and recipes for birthday parties, school lunches and other social situations that make the disease manageable and make their children’s social lives happy. (glutenfreemom.com)

Roasted Pepper Feta Muffins

(Makes 12)

2 cups brown rice flour blend *

4 teaspoons gluten-free baking powder

1 ½ teaspoons dried oregano

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon xanthan gum

¼ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

1 egg

1 cup milk

½ cup unsalted butter, melted

¾ cup chopped drained roasted red bell peppers, patted dry

¾ cup crumbled feta cheese

In a large bowl, whisk together flour blend, baking powder, oregano, salt, xanthan gum and pepper. In a medium bowl, vigorously whisk egg. Whisk in milk and butter until well blended. Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture and stir until well blended. Gently fold in roasted peppers and cheese. Divide batter equally among 12 greased muffin cups. Bake in a 375-degree preheated oven for 18-25 minutes or until a tooth pick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool in pan on a wire rack for 5 minutes, then transfer the muffins to the rack to cool slightly. Serve warm.

*Brown rice flour blend for 3 cups of flour: 2 cups finely ground brown rice flour, ? cup potato starch, 1/3 cup tapioca starch. Whisk all together in a bowl and use as directed in recipes. Store any leftover blend in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 months or in the freezer for up to one year. Let warm to room temperature before using.

Sour Cream Peach Muffins

(Makes 12)

1 ½ cups brown rice flour blend*

½ cup almond flour

1 tablespoon gluten-free baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon xanthan gum

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ cup granulated sugar

1 egg

¼ cup vegetable oil

¾ teaspoon almond extract

1 cup sour cream

¼ cup milk

1 cup diced fresh or frozen (thawed) peaches

In a large bowl, whisk together flour blend, almond flour, baking powder, salt, xanthan gum and cinnamon. In a medium bowl, whisk together sugar, egg, oil and almond extract until well blended. Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture and stir  until well blended. Gently fold in peaches. Divide batter equally among 12 greased muffin cups. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 20-25 minutes or until tops are golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool i pan on a wire rack for 5 minutes, then transfer to the rack to cool.

(150 Best Gluten-Free Muffin Recipes, by Camilla V. Saulsbury. Robert Rose, $19.95)

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A regal Malbec with backbone pairs beautifully with Sweet Grass Dairy's Thomasville Tomme.

(Thomasville, GA)  A family farm would seem to be an unlikely tourism magnet. Far from the large cities of Florida and 200 miles south of Atlanta is Sweet Grass, a family owned dairy that makes cheese. Not your ordinary cheese, mind you, but the kind made over the ages by hand from local milk. Do this well and in today’s fast-growing food centric culture and you attract some mainstream media attention and earn a place for your cheeses on prestigious restaurant menus from South Beach to San Francisco.

Jessica Little, co-owner of Sweet Grass Dairy, leads a cheese and wine tasting for a group of visiting culinary tourism writers at her popular store in downtown Thomasville.

Thomasville, just across the Sunshine State’s northern border, is Tallahassee’s good neighbor. They share a television station and many residents commute to nearby Florida State and Florida A & M. Local farmers sell indigenous food products: Tupelo honey, Mayhaw jelly and delicious smoked mullet, an esoteric delicacy.

Thomasville has some of the most admired plantations in America. One provided refuge for Jackie Kennedy shortly after her husband’s assassination. The city has remnants of red brick-paved streets and sidewalk shopping is thriving. A few storefronts up the street from Spencer Young’s Grassroots Coffee shop is Sweet Grass retail store, a facility that showcases the handcrafted cheeses from the nearby dairy and serves remarkably wonderful wines. After 3 p.m., it’s standing room only.

The fame of the retail store is derivative of the high level of national acceptance by gourmet food stores, chefs and food critics of the cheeses produced at Sweet Grass Dairy. Founded by Al and Desiree Wehner, and now owned by their daughter and son-in-law, Jessica and Jeremy Little, the artisinal cheeses early on won acclaim and prestigious awards.

I toured the dairy with a group of food and travel writers and the strictly enforced food safety measures required my donning a surgical mask, gloves and “bootees” to tour the production and storage area. The dairy no longer allows public tours and the devotion to advanced hygiene and health procedures was reassuring, another reminder of the advantages of eating locally produced food. There is comfort in knowing where food originates.

Popular Sweet Grass varieties labeled Thomasville Tomme, Georgia Gouda, Asher Blue, among others are found in the cheese departments of trusted stores like Whole Foods. The Thomasville retail store pairs its cheeses with an impressive selection of wines attracting veteran wine enthusiasts and those who simply enjoy the experience.

Thomasville Tomme is made from Jersey cow’s milk from Jessica’s parent’s Green Hill Dairy in nearby Quitman, Georgia. It’s a layered cheese that when sliced recalls fresh buttermilk or crème friache. Red wine with more than a little backbone will balance out the enjoyment and few are better than Malbec from Argentina or Tannat from Uruguay.

Health and food safety procedures are strictly enforced in the production area at Sweet Grass Dairy.

Sweet Grass is more than a highly successful dairy and gourmet cheese maker. It is a testament to the benefits of sustainable agriculture and proof that sustainability can propel prosperity. The land, the livestock and the local economy benefit immeasurably. Out in the countryside, the entrance to the dairy on U.S 19 (the road going north will take you to President Carter’s home in Plains) is marked with a modest sign. In contrast, the store in downtown Thomasville really rocks: a cheerful room, filled with laughter and customers sampling rare cheeses with generous pours of wine and beer.

I count on one hand the places that compare.

Culinary tourism is a growing industry, part of the natural evolution of farm-to-table and local grown food trends. The land triangle formed by Thomasville and its Florida neighbors Tallahassee and Monticello sits on top of the Florida aquifer, the world’s largest. The air is clean, the water pure and the soil fertile. Restaurants like Liam’s in Thomasville, and Tallahassee’s Avenue Eat & Drink and Cypress (each has served me amuse bouche featuring a Sweet Grass cheese) are important components of the culinary adventures here. Sweet Grass represents successful sustainability in full economic bloom, a clarion broadcasting the news of a beneficial and highly productive food system in the Deep South.

According to legend, happy cows produce superior milk. Likewise, good people who love their community and are good stewards of surrounding land are generating lots of excitement with their dairy, handcrafted cheeses and wonderful store, regularly attracting new visitors who like what they see and eat.

As a New Englander, Memorial Day weekend always meant filling the grills with charcoal, seasoning the steaks and deciding whether the cold rain would hold off or if we would have to move the picnic table into the garage.

The menu seldom varied. There was always Mrs. Calhoun’s tuna-macaroni salad, my Mom’s potato salad made with Hellman’s mayo and chopped hard-boiled eggs, red onion and celery. Her secret seasoning was a packet of George Washington beef broth, (honestly, a sprinkle in egg salad or tossed in a fresh crisp garden salad with oil and vinegar is amazing).

There were baked stuffed potatoes if we were having marinated grilled flank steak and, of course, watermelon carved like a boat with lovely scooped assorted melon balls. We Coopers were kind of the kings of summer grilling season. Memorial Day was a two-day cook out event, usually with barbecued chicken while Father’s Day was clearly the day of big steaks. Back in the day BBQ meant grilling – there were no special wood chips and the newest thing on the market was self-lighting Kingsford Charcoal. Bobby Flay took us to another level with Boy Meets Grill and today there are almost as many grilling and BBQ books as there are day-to-day cookbooks.

To make it simple for our Flavors & More readers, follow this guide, and remember nothing goes better with a summer grilling menu than a pile of marshmallows waiting to be toasted.

The difference between Grilling and Barbecuing is simple:

Grilling is cooking over direct intense heat. It involves food that needs to be turned, basted and generally smaller and tenderer cuts of steaks, fish and poultry. The heat should be at a level that if you hold your palm 5 inches over the grill, you will have to move it away after 2 to 3 seconds. Use the tenderest cuts of steaks; like filets, strips and porterhouse. Steak cut fish like sword, tuna, mahi-mahi and salmon are easier to handle than thinner fillet cuts.

Barbecue on the other hand uses indirect heat and much lower temperatures that range in the 200 to 250 degree area. This involves much longer cook times and is best suited for briskets, pork shoulders and less tender cuts that benefit from long slow cooking.

Chef Judi’s Grilling Tips

* If using charcoal, for best flavor use a chimney type starter.

* My favorite type of charcoal is the hardwood type that comes in different and irregular shapes. These cook hotter and faster than briquettes.

* If you are going to add a smoke flavor, also use the chunk style wood.

* Soak the wood chunks for 20 minutes or so to produce the best smoke.

* If you are the spontaneous type griller, soak your wood chunks for 20 minutes, then place them in a zip lock bag and throw them in the freezer. Then you are always ready to add a bit of smoke flavor without having to wait.

* Keep your grill surface clean and oiled while grilling. This will keep the lean cuts from sticking and help get those beautiful but sometimes elusive grill marks we are always so proud of!

* Use tongs or a spatula instead of a fork to turn your steaks and fish.

* Keep your grill clean. The easiest way is to clean after every use.

Cedar Plank Salmon

Recipe courtesy Steve Raichlen

1 cedar plank (6 by 14 inches)

2 salmon fillets (1 1/2 pounds total)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 tablespoons Dijon mustard

6 tablespoons brown sugar

Soak cedar plank in salted water for 2 hours, then drain. Remove skin from salmon fillet. Remove any remaining bones. Rinse the salmon under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Generously season the salmon with salt and pepper on both sides. Lay the salmon (on what was skin-side down) on the cedar plank and carefully spread the mustard over the top and sides. Place the brown sugar in a bowl and crumble between your fingers, then sprinkle over the mustard.

Set grill for indirect grilling and heat to medium-high. Place the cedar plank in the center of the hot grate, away from the heat. Cover the grill and cook until cooked through, around 20 to 30 minutes. The internal temperature should read 135 degrees F. Transfer the salmon and plank to a platter and serve right off the plank.

Cook’s Note: A direct method to grill the salmon may be used. Soak the cedar plank well. Spread the mustard and brown sugar on the salmon, but do not place the fish on the plank. Set up the grill for direct grilling on medium-high. When ready to cook, place the plank on the hot grate and leave it until there is a smell of smoke, about 3 to 4 minutes. Turn the plank over and place the fish on top. Cover the grill and cook until the fish is cooked through, reaching an internal temperature of 135 degrees F. Check the plank occasionally. If the edges start to catch fire, mist with water, or move the plank to a cooler part of the grill.

Serves 4

Whiskey-Butter Grilled Steaks

Whiskey Butter:
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
2 shallots minced, soaked in 1 shot of Jack Daniels or other whiskey or bourbon
3 teaspoons minced parsley
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
3 teaspoons Jack Daniels or other whiskey
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
White pepper to taste

Steaks:
4 cowboy steaks, bone-in rib eye steaks, or other favorite steak, about 1-inch thick
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns, coarsely ground
Olive oil
Chopped parsley, optional

Grill on Medium-High
Make Whiskey Butter:

Make Butter at least 3 hours in advance. Combine butter, shallots soaked in Jack Daniels (or other bourbon or whiskey), parsley, Worcestershire, mustard, whiskey, salt, and pepper. Mix well. On a piece of plastic wrap, drop butter in spoonfuls to form a log. Roll butter in plastic wrap and smooth out to form a round log. Refrigerate until hard and easy to slice into round, coin-shaped pieces.
Prepare Steaks:

Allow meat to come to room temperature about 15 minutes before grilling.

Just before grilling, brush both sides of the steaks with the oil and season with salt and pepper.

Place steaks directly over medium-high heat for about 1 to 2 minutes, just long enough to get good grill marks. Turn steaks and sear the other side. Move steaks to indirect heat and continue cooking for about 7 more minutes for medium rare.

Remove steaks from the grill, top with a pat of the whiskey butter and allow to rest at least 5 minutes but no longer than 10 before serving.

Spread the melted butter all over the tops of the steaks and top each with a fresh slice of the whiskey butter and parsley, if desired.

Slow Cooked Apple Smoked Barbecue Pork

Modified from Wolfgang Puck’s recipes

Serves: 8 to 10

1 (5 to 6 pounds) pork butt

1/2 cup Pork Rub, recipe follows

1 tablespoon dry mustard

Olive Oil

Apple chips, soaked in water

BBQ sauce, recipe follows

8 soft potato rolls or sweet potato rolls

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

2 large pickles, sliced into thin rounds

Place the pork butt in a shallow pan. To the pork rub, add the dry mustard and mix well. Rub the whole surface with the Pork Rub. Drizzle the surface with olive oil and rub well again. Cover and refrigerate at least 6 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

Soak the apple chips in cold water for at least 30 minutes. Preheat 1 side of the charcoal grill to medium. Drain the apple chips and place on the hot side of the grill in the wood chip tray or in a small metal tray by the fire. Keep the other half of the grill on very low heat.

Place the pork on the hotter side of the grill and sear until golden brown on all sides, about 15 minutes. Remove to the lower heat side of the grill. Cook slowly, over low heat, 300 degrees F, until the meat is tender and falling off the bone, about 2 1/2 hours. Turn the meat every 20 minutes or so.

Remove from the grill and let rest for 10 minutes. Shred into bite-size pieces and place in a large bowl. Toss with desired amount of BBQ Sauce. Place on buns and top with red onions and pickles. (for Carolina style top with coleslaw.)

Pork Rub:

4 tablespoons brown sugar

3 tablespoons onion powder

1 Tablespoon garlic salt

4 tablespoons garlic powder

4 tablespoons dried thyme

4 tablespoons dried oregano

2 tablespoons mild paprika

2 tablespoons hot paprika

4 teaspoons cayenne

4 teaspoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons black pepper

2 teaspoons white pepper

2 tablespoons kosher salt

Mix all ingredients together and stir well.

Yield: about 1 cup

BBQ Sauce:

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/2 medium onion, minced

6 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves

1 cup ketchup

1 cup tomato puree

1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce

1/3 cup honey

1/3 cup brown sugar

2 tablespoons southern style hot sauce (recommended: Tabasco)

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

1 teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon kosher salt

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

In a medium saucepan, over medium heat, add the vegetable oil. Sauté the onions, garlic, and oregano until translucent, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients, ketchup, tomato puree, Worcestershire sauce, honey, brown sugar, hot sauce, paprika , cayenne, cumin, coriander, salt and black pepper. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, then lower heat to a simmer and allow to simmer for 1 hour 30 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning and heat to desired taste. Yield: about 3 cups.

Everyone loves tender buttery shortcakes, including this baker. Quick and easy to put together, you can serve them warm with coffee for breakfast.

Add 1/2 cup of currants or a cup of berries to the batter and call them scones (to whom they’re related), or split and fill them with your favorite seasonal berries and whipped cream to create a celebratory dessert.

Another reason you will love this particular recipe is that it works everywhere…not only at sea level, in Florida for example, but also in Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains (3,000 ft.), in Denver, Colorado (5,280 ft.), Santa Fe, New Mexico (7,000 ft.), and Breckenridge Colorado (10,000 ft.), just in case you travel to, or live in, the mountains. As anyone who bakes “at altitude” already knows, recipe adjustments are essential because of changes in air pressure and humidity, among other things; you will find adjustment notes  for this recipe following the ingredients list in my book Pie In The Sky, Successful Baking at High Altitude.

I love to make shortcakes in the summer when ripe berries are plentiful and available at farmers markets. Red, White, and Blue Shortcake is our family Fourth of July special – with raspberries, blueberries and sweetened whipped cream; a blend of strawberries, raspberries, and blueberries is my personal favorite, but sliced ripe peaches or nectarines with blueberries are great and strawberries alone remain a perennial hit.

Author Susan G. Purdy

If your garden lets you down or your favorite berries are out of season, you can always substitute whole frozen berries dry-packed – without added sugar – in bags, sold in the supermarket freezer case. Be creative and try new fruit combinations, look for sweet and tangy mixes, or toss in a splash of liqueur  – in the fruit and/or whipped cream.

These shortcakes are homey, old-fashioned and slightly rustic looking…no prior skills needed. For tender texture, the trick is to handle the dough as little as possible. I like to blend the dough in a food processor because it is so fast, but you can also use a big bowl and a wire pastry blender or a big fork. For the perfect berry sauce, I cook up about half the berries with a little sugar, just to release some juice, then remove the pan from the stove and toss in the remaining whole berries. This gives an ideal blend of textures and the juice looks mouth-watering dripping down the sides of the whipped cream.

Do-Ahead Note: Bake the shortcakes and prepare the fruit several hours (up to one day) in advance of serving so both are cold. Set a metal bowl and beater in the freezer to chill for whipping the cream.

Note: Basic recipe is written for use at sea level to an altitude of approximately 3000 ft. At 3,000 ft. and above, see adjustment notes following ingredients list.

Shortcakes:

(Yield, 8 shortcakes)

2 cups all-purpose flour (scoop and sweep to measure)

2 1/2  teaspoons baking powder

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg (optional)

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and cut up

1 large egg, at room temperature

1/2 cup buttermilk

Glaze:

2 tablespoons buttermilk

2 tablespoons granulated or large crystal sugar

Fruit:

About 6 cups fresh ripe whole medium-size strawberries (or other berries), stemmed, rinsed, drained on paper towels ( use more if berries are very large)

3 tablespoons water or fruit juice

1/4 cup granulated sugar, or to taste

Generous pinch of nutmeg

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Topping:

1 cup heavy cream, chilled

2 tablespoon granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

High Altitude Adjustments (these work about 1000 feet to either side of listed altitude): Use original recipe above and at:

3,000 ft.  -Add 2 tablespoons buttermilk

5,000 ft. – Add 1 tablespoon butter, add 1/4 cup buttermilk (3/4 cup total), bake for 18 to 20 minutes or until golden  brown and dry in center.

7,000 ft. – Add 1 tablespoon butter, add  3 to 4 tablespoons buttermilk (up to 3/4 cup total), bake 20 to 22 minutes or until golden brown and dry in center.

10,000 ft. – Preheat oven to 425°F. but reduce heat to 400°F. to bake; Add 3 tablespoons flour, add 1/8 teaspoon baking powder, reduce sugar to 1/4 cup  plus 2 teaspoons,  reduce salt to 3/4 teaspoon, add 2 tablespoons butter, omit egg,  add 1/4 cup buttermilk plus a few drops more if too dry. Bake 22 to 24 minutes or until golden and dry in center.

1.  Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 425° F.  Line a cookie sheet with baking parchment or a nonstick baking mat or coat lightly with nonstick vegetable spray.

2. In work bowl of food processor or large mixing bowl, combine flour, baking powder, sugar, salt, and nutmeg.  Pulse or whisk to blend, then add butter and pulse or work pastry blender in bowl to mix butter into dry ingredients until mixture resembles coarse crumbs.  Add the egg (if using) and buttermilk and lightly mix dough just until it clings together and no dry lumps are visible. If using the processor, turn dough out onto wax paper.

3.  With your fingers, work the dough gently into it comes together into a soft ball.  Pull off 8 lumps of dough, each roughly 2 x 2 1/2-inches, and set them about 2-inches apart on the prepared baking sheet. It’s fine for the dough to look rough and irregular.

4.  To glaze, dip a pastry brush into the buttermilk, dab it on the top of each shortcake, and sprinkle generously with sugar. Bake at 425°F. for 15 to 18 minutes (or see time indicated for your altitude) or until shortcakes are golden brown and a toothpick in the center comes out dry. Lift shortcakes with spatula and cool completely on wire rack.

5.  To prepare the fruit: If using strawberries, cut in quarters or slice (leave raspberries or blueberries whole). Combine about half the berries in a saucepan with the water, sugar, nutmeg, and lemon juice. Set on medium heat and cook barely 5 to 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, just to release juices. Remove pan from heat and stir in remaining fresh berries. Taste juice and add a little more sugar if needed; if made in advance, refrigerate until ready to serve.

6.  To whip cream, combine cream, sugar, and vanilla in chilled bowl and whip until medium-soft peaks form; cream should not be too stiff.

7.   To assemble, use serrated knife to slice off the top 1/3 of each shortcake. Place bottom portion on dessert plate, spoon on a little fruit sauce, top with a dollop of whipped cream and generous spoon of berry mixture. Stick on  “lid” of shortcake and top with a drop of whipped cream and more berries and sauce. Serve. Pass at table any remaining berries.

Susan G. Purdy is the author of PIE IN THE SKY, SUCCESSFUL BAKING AT HIGH ALTITUDE. W. Morrow/HarperCollins. Available from amazon.com at $19.59. Also see www.highaltitudebaking.com

Here at fabulous Chez-Philips you probably expect that we have “people” to do things, knowing the male resident’s genius for directing. But alas, “people” would be the humble husband homeowner delegated to improve things around here.

Reclining in the hammock, this “people” recently got to thinking about the goofy trend of kitchens loosing their upper cabinets. Why this trend? More wall space for those overpriced back-splashes? What else to do with these new blank walls?

Unable to focus properly on this conundrum, I rolled over in my hammock and got onto a new topic as to why our kids are lucky enough traveled extensively while I’m still cleaning leaves out of gutters in my dotage. Rome, the Caribbean, Hanoi, and so on. But do photos of the Trevi Fountain, wide beaches or Colonial French architecture ever show in our emails? N-o is the correct answer. Do these beautiful photos ever get enlarged, printed and framed for home decor? They should be.

Now, go back to the newly available space on those kitchen walls. Think, hey, a photography art gallery here. Possibly photographs of meals you prepared or places you’ve been. Great veggie photos or original paintings or collections of heirloom plates you bought on vacation.

How to physically display them and maybe rotate the art show? Picture rails are the answer. You mount two or several of these rails on a kitchen wall and instantly you’ve got space for a kitchen art gallery. One rail version is about an inch and a half wide shelf with molding under, thus supporting it to give some horizontal mass. Or the rails could be heavier in scale. The rails could be wood, metal, acrylic, whatever. But, I’ve mostly seen wooden rails.

Picture rails look good anywhere. Why not the kitchen? Try frames of various sizes, colors and contents. Layer then for a really cool installation. Or select a monochrome scheme and use the same frame shape for all. Get creative.

You can custom craft your own picture rails, but it’s easier and just as inexpensive to browse the aisles of Pottery Barn, Target or some big box stores. You can also buy them online.

You can custom craft your own picture rails.

But,  if you want to make your own thus showing some creativity, you could craft them with molding found at any lumber yard. Use one-inch wide pine lath for the horizontal. For the supporting molding, make sure it’s consistent with your home’s trim. Glue those two beauties together for rigidity and mass. Install more than one rail. Vary the lengths. Paint or stain.

If you have just a single rail, where does it hang? The center of what sits on it should be at eye level. Not the shelf itself at eve level. If two shelves, average them out. If 27 shelves, send me airfare and I’ll do it to ease your pain.

Don’t fear using 8” x10” or 11” x 14” photos/prints. Or even a bit larger. And don’t limit yourself to paintings or photos. Plates, framed old maps, platters, framed menus from famous restaurants. You’ll definitely need more than one rail. If you need specifics on the physical way to hang them, send a self addressed envelope with $300 in unmarked bills for the details. I typically don’t roll out of this hammock for less.

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You Guys Ready To Order?

In a recent newspaper interview, Dan Cathy the CEO of the fast-casual chain Chick-fil-A, explained that it took him 10 years to get his servers behind the counter to respond with “my pleasure” when customers said “thank you.” They kept wanting to say “no problem,” the common comeback line that in modern times has completely replaced “you’re welcome.”

I wish Mr. Cathy would come to my town and hold classes at restaurants both budget and haute. “No problem” makes no sense except that it implies whatever we wanted from servers or did to them was of so little consequence that they dismiss us with breezy “no problem” finality. When someone says “thank you,” I vote for the response, “my pleasure.” It is what most Ritz-Carlton hotel staffers have said for years. Classy, personal, hospitable and apparently no problem to utter.

Hey - No Problem!

While Mr. Cathy is in town, I also want him to find a way to discourage restaurant servers from greeting a table full of women as “you guys,” as in: “Welcome to our restaurant, my name is Gloria and I’ll be your server today. Can I start you guys off with a glass of wine?” I always want to reply, “Gloria, can I start you off with a lesson in gender and syntax?” Instead I usually order the wine.

The “you guys” phenomenon isn’t just diminishing language skills in the restaurant world. It’s completely pervasive in all aspects of family life and the corporate world. “You guys stop jumping on the sofa.”  “I’m ordering lunch for the office, what do you guys want?” More precise English with dressing on the side.

The term “guy” comes to America from England where it was used commonly (in the 19th century) to describe a chap or fellow who dressed flamboyantly or engaged in bizarre behavior. The origin dates back to 1605 and to a real person, Guy Fawkes, who tried to blow up Parliament. In England, the word evolved into a casual way to talk to or about another male. We’ve gotten carried away with it in 21st century America where we routinely call animals, children, adults, co-workers and friends “you guys.” At my local garden center, I overheard a staff person address some shrubs with, “you guys could use a little fertilizer.” Actually, they did look sickly.

Since I’m a food person, my plea is to restaurant employees. Please stop saying “you guys” when you simply mean “you” in either the singular or plural. Instead say: “Would you like bottled water or house water?” Isn’t that easy? And economical too because you avoided a needless word.

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