Monster Sink

Some of today’s “brilliant” kitchen details are not.

Recently I lightly brushed one of those very elegant wine stems sitting on the granite counter at Yalc’s deb party. it fell over. And shattered. Into 37,000 shards of costly crystal. The kitchen was roped off. The $500 dollar vacuum was summoned into service. Haz-mat was alerted.

That reinforced it for me about (any) stone counters. Phooey. Hard natural surfaces don’t give us klutzes half of a fighting chance.

Now the both of you who read this column, under duress of being omitted from the Fabulous Philips Fortune, know I’m King Corian. Why? Because even though in our past three houses I’ve constantly hit the edges of the (all three) solid-surface kitchen counters with a multitude of plates coming out of the dishwasher, no chipping of plates occurred. Or of the counter edge. Nor have I suffered any explosions of the tipped wine stems scenario. Or cleaned the crud gathering either at the under-mount sink or under the overlaying sink trim ring because on solid-surface tops the joints, sink to top, are smooth.

Watch Out For "Painted Faucets"

And, being a well known climatologist, I claim that since the house heat is turned down at night, the damn counter will radiate cold all the way through breakfast. More to the point, natural stone tops do scratch, not to be easily repaired. Given, stone is great for pastry. Stick to that area. As an aside, my mother-in-law once left her diamond tiara on a marble counter and it scratched the counter when I picked it up. I did escape the guillotine but I was disinherited and never rose to be the King.

And what about those monster sinks? Now I realize that many of you roast a turkey every week and need that bathtub-sized sink to clean your broiler pan. Or you’re running a dog wash for Labradors. But how big a sink do the rest of us need?

Then there’s the faucet. First, watch out for the “painted” ones. Actually they’re hotsey-totsie epoxy electro-whatsis applied with space age technology to last a lifetime. And I’ve got the Brooklyn Bridge to sell you. They chip. They stain. They chip more. And the “stainless” finishes aren’t that stainless. So kiddies, avoid the colors/white finish. And don’t go too cheap on the stainless models either. Plus, since plastic parts are in most of them, figure five years on that “lifetime warranty.”

Also consider faucets that pull out, rather than a fixed length. Allows you to fill pots that don’t fit in your reality-sized sink. Or fill a watering can. And you can easily wash out your sink’s corners.

Backsplash

About backsplashes. No self-respecting kitchen designer would dream of unselling this glamorous accessory. There are big bucks in backsplaces. But since a backsplash is supposed to protect the wall in back of the stove from flying grease, you have to ask yourself, just how violent a cook are you?  I’ve seen some splash treatments that equal the cost of the appliances in front of them.

On to base cabinets. Use pull-out drawers, not stationery shelves. Unless you like having two doors to open 100% all-the-way, block traffic, whack your knees and injure the hound awaiting crumbs. So opt for drawers, lots of them and not deep, because just how deep are your skillets? And line those drawers with good heavy liners that you can remove to clean. In your “reasonably-sized” sink.

Glass Front Cabinets

Upper cabinets. Go all-the-way to the ceiling. Leave an open space on top and what goes there? Besides dust hares? OK, dusty artificial plants in which the hares can hide. Isn’t closed storage for lesser used items better? Say yes.

And while we’re talking upper cabinets, what about open shelves? Reconsider this over-done concept of cabinets that you can see into which, in the store showroom, look tres spiffy. LED illuminated. Perfectly filled. Color coordinated. Not crowded. Geometrically arrayed. Spotless glass. Just like you live? Oh, you so fib.

Unless you have live-in, neurotic help that has plate-stack-fever, combined with an intense dislike of dust, open shelves are not so good. Or even clear glass doors. Unless you own only perfectly coordinated everything. Or you like the tag-sale look. Opt for opaque glass if you must be trendy. Here are my tips for what should be trendy in the kitchen.

• Think classically conservative and I don’t mean this politically. Have been in some kitchens that were done in the seventies in neutral shades (I still prefer white) that, with a little updating, can go on for 20 more years.
• Put “today-2012” in accents that can be updated or evolve with your taste and the times. Think “replace pulls.” Think “replace wall paint.” Think “replace splash.” Even “replace counter top.”
• Do not fall for what’s “hot-hot-hot” today. Think long-term livability. Remember bright colored counter tops or tile tops? When those avocado appliances fell out of favor? Or beige? Or red? Or mirror stainless before the easy-wipe (sort of) matte finish?
• Over-invest in storage space. You can’t go wrong.

# # #

The toughest food critic we will ever face — and the one whose taste goes unquestioned — wears a bib and a diaper. But there is help, friends, for avoiding consignment to the splat mat. Cook it with love and make it yourself.

The reasons to eschew store-bought, pre-packaged baby-food products in favor of wholesome homemade baby and toddler meals — expense, nutrition, flavor, food additive control, etc.— are compelling. All-in-one preparation and storage systems like the Baby Bullet® can turn any kitchen and novice stovesmith into a kiddy-kibble factory. The question, then, becomes not whether, but what, to cook.

The title of The Best Homemade Baby Food on the Planet establishes a high performance standard. My interpretation for the choice was that the authors feel as much pride in their cookbook offspring as other parents do. After all, no one wants to characterize his or her child’s diet as just “decent.”

What do I expect from a baby food primer? Nutritional and dietary information and instruction, age-appropriate ingredient lists, tips on storage and refrigeration/freezing, portion control and feeding technique advice, winning recipes, etc. Best Homemade gets two spoons up for addressing the right content, but also anticipating needs that I had not considered. For example, a recipe feedback chart allows tracking every preparation with a baby star rating system and space for notes.

Surprises in Best Homemade included frequent use of the microwave, which in our house did little more than reheat leftovers and cold coffee. The raisin puree below is delicious on its own; however, it is also the foundation for other treats that will delight both baby and chef. Add vanilla extract, peeled pear, and agave nectar to the blender for an all-purpose syrup or fruit spread.

The beauty of Best Homemade is that it promotes playfulness, discovery, and high times in the high chair while delivering a healthy dose of nutritional, behavioral, and developmental science. Parents will find reassurance and confidence in Knight and Ruggeiro’s thoughtful and complete approach to raising a healthy, happy eater.

Our 17-month old, Fauna, has enjoyed Best Homemade recipes, and Flora and I have learned a great deal about her preferences thanks to experimenting with a wide range of tastes and textures. We have begun making our own concoctions for her precocious tastebuds, such as homemade hummus cut with avocado. Fauna loves it spread on whole wheat bread.

Baby’s First Raisin Puree

¼ cup dark, seedless organic raisins

¼ cup water

Microwave method. Place the raisins and water in a microwave-safe dish. Microwave on high for 40 seconds until hot. Allow to cool slightly and then transfer to a blender and puree 30 to 60 seconds until smooth.

Toddler’s Shepherd’s Pie

¼ cup cooked ground turkey

¼ cup cooked mashed potatoes

2 tablespoons grated cheddar cheese

Oven method. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil an oven-safe 6-ounce custard cup. Place the turkey in the cup, cover with the potatoes, and sprinkle with cheese. Bake 10 to 15 minutes until the cheese is melted.

Try this dressing with avocado, shredded carrots, and parsley or cilantro.

Luscious Lime Dressing

Juice of one lime

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon peeled and finely chopped ginger (optional)

Place lime juice, vinegar, olive oil, and ginger (if desired) in a small clean, lidded jar and mix well.

(The Best Homemade Baby Food on the Planet by Karin Knight and Tina Ruggiero. Beverly, MA: Fair Winds Press. 2010. $19.99)

# # #

American women seem obsessed with their French counterparts – what they eat, how thin they are, how they flirt, where they shop and how they manage to tie a silk scarf in 20 glamorous different ways. A new book called The Bonne Femme Cook Book by Wini Moranville promises to demystify the recipe part of the French mystique. You’re on your own with the scarf thing.

The author aims to bring 250 authentic (and easy to make) French recipes to the American table. Her emphasis is on techniques and speedy preparation. She says French women don’t spend all day in the kitchen and neither should you. Many of the meals in this book can be assembled in just 30 minutes. The author has spent every summer in France for the last 20 years perfecting her skills at assembling ingredients and producing authentic French meals.

Moranville’s book is nicely divided into chapters on casseroles and pasta, sides, eggs and cheese dishes, salads, soups braised or stewed dishes and desserts. There’s a measurements equivalents section and herb section because French women can really maximize herbs. And the author offers tips for success as well as cultural comments on many of the classic recipes.

One thing she makes clear is that the modern French cook develops her soup repertoire and relies upon it just as her grandmother did. First-course soups are alive and well in France, in both homes and restaurants. The author makes a good case for reviving the soup course in American homes and she offers some soup recipes that could easily persuade me.

Instead of color photographs, The Bonne Femme opts for whimsical drawings of pencil-thin women cooking or shopping as well as depictions of ingredients or little vignettes of table settings and the like. The art adds a lightness to the book that is welcome and makes you believe that everyday French cooking can be easy and breezy. You already know it will be delicious.

Chickpea Soup from the South of France

(The Bonne Femme Cook Book)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 celery ribs, finely diced

½ cups finely chopped onion

2 large garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon dried herbs de Provence, crushed

1 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas (garbanzo beans) rinsed and drained

3 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1 large tomato, seeded and chopped or 1 cup diced canned tomatoes, drained

Salt and pepper to taste

Freshly shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the celery, onion, garlic and herbes de Provence and cook, stirring until the vegetables are barely tender, 4 to 5 minutes (do not allow onions to brown; also, the celery should retain its color and  little of its crunch). Add the chickpeas, chicken broth and tomato,pouring slowly so that the liquid doesn’t spatter. Season with  salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. If you like, mash a few of the chickpeas against the side of the pan to thicken the soup a bit. Serve the sup in wide, shallow bowls topped with fresh shavings of the cheese.

Variations: Instead of tomatoes, add ½ cup sliced roasted red peppers. Or, stir in some shredded leafy greens that are in danger of wilting before you can use them up – escarole is an especially good choice. Add more chicken broth if your soup becomes too thick after adding the greens.

(The Bonne Femme Cook Book by Wini Maranville. Harvard Common Press, hardcover, $24.95)

# # #

Jaillance Cremant de Bordeaux Cuvee de l’Abbaye is a festive bubbly that’s also light and pretty. But, best of all, it’s a budget buy. The term “Cremant” is used because this French sparking wine is not from the Champagne region and therefore that regional label may not be used to describe it. And it’s not made with the usual champagne grapes either. Instead it is vinified from Semillon grapes. But, it is produced in the traditional champagne method and aged for two years. It sells in the $15-20 range, making it an affordable choice for something so celebratory.

Six of us at Flavors & More conducted a tasting, opening the bottle with our appetizers and sipping through dinner and dessert. The Cremant de Bordeaux bottle label suggested we would taste grapefruit, and although the wine is slightly sweet, our collective palates caught the essence of peach, flowers, dough and apple. Nice flavors.

This is a sparkling wine that would work especially well with Spring meals and would be a good choice for an Easter brunch. Drop a raspberry in the bottom of each glass or make mimosas by adding a fresh-squeezed orange juice to the wine and a dash of triple sec. Cremant de Bordeaux is inexpensive enough so that you don’t feel it’s a sacrilege to dilute or alter the flavor profile. “Cremant” means sparkling wine and applies to various effervescent wines, such as champagne, produced by a process involving fermentation in the bottle.

To make a classic sparkling wine cocktail: Soak a sugar cube in bitters, drop it into a flute, fill the flute with Cremant de Bordeaux and garnish with a twist of lemon. Say cheers and enjoy.

# # #

Too often confused with lower end wines, elegant Rosé adds to the Valentine's ceremony. Lovely, complex and refreshing, they are among the most versatile wines.

February is that month set aside to celebrate love with Valentine’s Day positioned right in the middle. I think of red roses, chocolates, Champagne and most often an intimate dinner. There are a few highly original items that add to the joy and romance of Valentine’s Day.

Some of the greatest love stories-The Black Swan, Romeo and Juliet, Giselle- are told through dance, highlighted by iconic pairings of dancers, or pas de deux, a French ballet term meaning “steps of two,” in which two dancers perform together. The pas de deux usually includes an entrée, adagio, two variations (one for each dancer) and a coda all throughout which the dancers communicate expressions of love and emotion. Wine pairing should have this same romantic balance and I have found few for Valentine’s Day more lovely than the sparkling wine named Pas de Deux.

The creator of this bottled treasure is Sharon Fenchak, a visionary winemaker at Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina. I asked her how this particular wine with the enchanting name was born.

“I was inspired, “ she told me,  “to craft this wine following a stint in Italy’s Veneto. After enjoying some of the classic Moscato of the region, I dreamed of creating my own sparkler on home soil.” She added that her dream became a reality “when I landed here at Biltmore, a property where sparkling wine has been part of the culinary and entertaining tradition since George Vanderbilt opened his doors to guests back in 1895.”

Crafted in the classic Methode Champenoise, the wine’s lively bubbles, according to Ms. Fenchak, symbolize a celebration, while its delicate sweet flavors and crisp finish “are the perfect foil for the rich, creamy texture and complexity of chocolate confections and decadent Valentine’s Day fare.”

A vineyard in Provence where some great wines are pink, delicious and pair wonderfully with love.

The slow, elegant, unfolding movements of two dancers mark an adagio. Pas de Deux serves as the perfect start to a Valentine’s feast. All great love stories must end. The coda, or conclusion, of your own Valentine’s Day with Pas De Deux assures a refreshing finale on a high note.

If a sparking wine is only part of your wine plans, then, because of the special meaning of Valentine’s Day, think about a lovely bottle of Rosé. No, this isn’t “white zin” that comes in a huge jug. Complex, yet gentle, food friendly, cool on the palate and memorable, look for bottles from New York’s Finger Lakes region, Provence, Spain and Italy. Rarely are they overpriced and be forewarned, that you likely need more than one bottle. These often are highly popular at festive dinners.

Pas de Deux ia both an iconic pairing of ballet dancers and an exotic sparkling wine.

In France, rosé outsells both white and red wine. After having been largely ignored outside of France for decades, rosé is being rediscovered especially in warm weather states like Florida as a fun, versatile wine that complements today’s American lifestyles.

There are several good reasons for the rosé explosion: It’s fun – rosé is a beautiful, festive wine that goes hand-in-hand with good times.  One characteristic of these wines from Provence is the subtle influence of the Mediterranean – the dry, acidic nature of Provence rosé strikes a perfect balance with the well-loved Mediterranean flavors of olive oil, seafood, and fresh vegetables.  This wine, if anything, is versatile. Many enthusiasts consider rosé the ultimate pairing wine because it complements so many dishes.

The crisp, cool flavors of a well-balanced rosé pair well not only with traditional Provençal cuisine, but also with spicy, full-flavored dishes from many parts of the world.

Mark Oldman offers solid advice for those just getting their feet wet with this wine: “To achieve rosé nirvana, follow my ‘Rosé Rule of P’: serve it with anything pink–lobster, shrimp, ham, pork–or anything Provencal–such as bouillabaisse, salade Nicoise, or grilled sardines.”
Oldman’s Brave New World of Wine (Norton, 2010). And, don’t forget to invite me over when such heavenly dishes are served.

In the end, however, all of the above is but a prelude to the real thing. It is love that we honor and love comes in pairs, stands on its own footing and sure makes life fun. Cole Porter, perhaps a little tongue in cheek, said it well:

I get no kick from champagne.
Mere alcohol doesn’t thrill me at all,
So tell me why should it be true
That I get a kick out of you?

An oasis on a Florida barrier island, The Gasparilla Inn welcomes Presidents, generations of families from Texas and Michigan to Massachusetts and Illinois, the best tarpon fishing in the world and boasts as one of the best 10 golf resorts in the world.

The resort, in the city of Boca Grande, also hosts an annual food and wine weekend. There are only 60 certified Master Chefs in the world, Executive Chef Peter Timmins holds that title making him the ideal professional to organize an extravagant weekend for foodies and wine connoisseurs.

Our weekend began by checking into a casually chic two bedroom/two bath bungalow, the perfect get away for a group of girlfriends to gather and toast a weekend of culinary bliss. There is a relaxed sampling dinner at the beach club on Friday evening. Each guest chef and the Inn’s chefs of both the main dining room and their casual sister restaurant, The Pink Elephant, (just call it The Pink if you want to sound like a local) host tastings ranging from duck confit tacos and pan seared snapper with tomato basil grits to a shooter of yellow tomato soup and coffee crusted filet, all paired with wines from the top regions of the world.

Saturday is a marathon for foodies. I recommend you start with a brisk walk and a full stack if the Inn’s ward winning blueberry pancakes (recipe to follow). Think of breakfast at the Inn as a a palate starter for the rest of the day. You also need a hearty breakfast, as the cooking classes and wine tastings offer only tiny bites before the grand dinner that evening.

Now for the Grand Dinner.

We arrive in the main sitting area to champagne, wine and passed hors d’oeuvres, such as savory macaroon with foie gras mousse and  shaved truffle, and organic red bliss potato filled with crème fraiche and caviar. As we settle into wicker arm chairs by the fire, life is at its best. But then the gentle dinner bell chimes and guests are escorted to the private dining room where the seven-course dining experience peeks.

Each dish is elegantly presented but flavorful with every component of the dish achieving balance and yet surprise. This is a gluttonous experience and I yearn for yet another.

The experience of the weekend leads to new friendships from around the country, promises of meeting again next year and last toasts at BZ’s bar before we head to cuddle up next to our bungalows’ fireplace and dream of the next morning and another stack of fresh blueberry pancakes. Keep your eyes open, you just might see Laura Bush strolling by on her way to meet her husband at the beach club.

The Gasparilla Inn is registered in the National Register of Historic Places. Next year marks 100 years since the opening of The Gasparilla Inn and Club in the winter of 1913. Golf packages, Romance weekend, spa get-aways, Thanksgiving Weekend and Twelve Days of Christmas. May 2-5 Boca Grande Fishing Classic. The 2013 Food and Wine Experience is scheduled for January 13-15. Reservations and more information, call 877-403-0602. The Gasparilla Inn is closed in the summer except for weddings and special events. And Boca Grade itself is a very seasonal kind of town, geared to provide sun and fun while the rest of the country is cloaked in winter.

Blueberry Pancakes

Executive Chef Peter Timmins, The Gasparilla Inn & Club

(makes approximately 12 large pancakes)

2 large eggs

2 cups buttermilk

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup sugar

2 teaspoons baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

pinch cinnamon

1 ½ pounds blueberries

Sift together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon and salt. Place into a mixing bowl. Add the sugar. Add the eggs and about half the buttermilk to make a thick paste. Continue to whisk until it is smooth. Gradually add the rest of the buttermilk. Stir in the melted butter.

Lightly grease a large sauté pan or griddle with a little oil or butter. Heat the pan until hot and then spoon out 4 tablespoons of batter per pancake. When the Mixture has formed its shape, sprinkle on approximately 2 ounces of blueberries per pancake. Cook the pancakes until the bottom is golden brown and the bubbles on top have burst and the mix no longer looks runny about 2-3 minutes. Turn the pancakes over and cook for another minute. Serve immediately and enjoy.

# # #

One of America’s favorite dishes, chili, has nothing to do with the country of Chile but everything to do with the chili pepper and lots of other hot spices too. This one-pot meal is the go-to dish for home cooks needing to feed a crowd a tasty meal that keeps ingredient costs low and flavor intensity high.

Condiments such as shredded cheese, sour cream or crushed taco chips make a chili meal a customized experience. But, what really characterizes the meal is the part of the country where chili is prepared. Chili recipes are regional and you can usually geographically locate cooks by what goes into their pots of chili. Adding pasta? You’re making Cincinnati chili.

No one is sure of the origin of chili con carne (which is Spanish for chilies with meat), but a stew of meat, spices and water that could be made in big batches for little money turned up in California during the Gold Rush and also appeared in the mid 1800s in Texas where it was popular with cowboys who made a crude style of chili over campfires during long cattle drives.

Today there are as many varieties of chili as there are regions of the country and cooks with imagination. Almost anything goes, except that authentic chili needs to have chile peppers in the mix and resulting chili has to be hot, meaning spicy and also that it’s served hot or at room temperature. No one wants cold chili. Then there is the crucial decision a cook must make at the start of a recipe – beans or no beans. The International Chili Society emphatically decrees no beans in chili.

The type of chili you love is definitely pegged to the place where you grew up eating this all-American favorite. In Texas, most recipes call for beef chunks, no beans. If you live in Cincinnati you’ll use ground beef, spaghetti and sweet spices such as cinnamon and allspice. Black beans, cilantro and lime juice are ingredients in California chili, while green chilies, white beans and pork characterize a New Mexican chili. New York chili calls for hot sausage and red beans, while New Age chili is likely to be made with white beans and chicken.

Chicago chili devotees respond to a recipe of ground beef, red or pinto beans and a red sauce. But in Oklahoma, there are no beans in the chili, just meat, green chilies and beef broth. Vegetarian chili is delicious when made with three varieties of beans and corn. Philadelphia chili cooks put into the pot beef, beans, sweet-hot spices and even a touch of chocolate. What’s your chili profile?

Thursday, February 23 is National Chili Day. Plan to participate. Choose a recipe and cook up a big batch.

White Bean Chicken Chili

Chef Judi Gallagher

“I love this recipe because the roasted chicken adds extra flavor. Why worry about soaking beans overnight and making sure they are cooked all the way when you can add canned. Serve with corn bread or cheesy biscuit.”

2 15-ounce cans pinto beans drained

8 fresh Anaheim chilies,(also known as California chilies and available at Latin American markets and some supermarkets), about 1 pound

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter

2 large onions, chopped

1/3 cup all purpose flour

4 cups low-salt chicken broth

3 cups half and half

4 cups shredded cooked chicken

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 tablespoon hot pepper sauce

1 tablespoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

(Optional) 1 jar white bean chili starter -Fronterra Brand is the best and

found at Fresh Market

1 1/2 cups grated Monterey Jack cheese (about 6 ounces)

1 cup sour cream

Chopped fresh cilantro

Purchased tomatillo or green chili salsa

Char chilies over gas flame or in broiler until blackened on all sides.

Enclose in paper bag; let stand 10 minutes. Peel, seed, and chop chilies.

Set aside. Melt butter in clean heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until tender, about 15 minutes. Add flour and stir 5 minutes (do not brown). Gradually whisk in chicken broth and half and half. Simmer gently until thickened, about 10 minutes. Add reserved white beans and roasted chilies, shredded chicken, and next 5 ingredients. Simmer gently to blend flavors, about 20 minutes. (Chili can be made 1 day ahead. Chill until cold, then cover and keep chilled. Heat before continuing.)

Add grated cheese and sour cream to chili; stir just until chili is heated

through and cheese melts (do not boil). Ladle chili into bowls and garnish

with cilantro and green salsa. Serve.

Team Jones Chili

Rodney Jones, a Florida champion chili chef

(12 Servings)

3 pounds chili-grind ground beef

2 pounds ground sausage

8 teaspoons California chili pepper

8 teaspoons New Mexico chili pepper

10 teaspoons Old West chili powder

8 ounces beef broth

8 ounces chicken broth

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 15-ounce canned diced tomatoes, in chili sauce if possible

2 large yellow onions chopped

2 cloves of garlic diced

3 teaspoons cayenne pepper

3 habanera peppers chopped

3 jalapeno peppers chopped

4 teaspoon cumin powder

Heat olive oil in large skillet and cook beef and pork until browned. Discard greasy cooking liquids from the skillet. Remove the meat with a slotted spoon and put in a large pot with the beef and chicken broth. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer. Discard greasy cooking liquids from the skillet. Heat remaining olive oil in skillet and sauté onions, peppers for about 5-7 minutes. Add to the large pot along with the additional ingredients cook while stirring on medium heat for about an hour. Turn the heat down and bring chili to a simmer. Stir every 5-7 minutes let simmer for about 30 minutes. Serve with shredded cheese and sour cream.

# # #

Stellenbosch Wine Region

The South African wine industry is one of the oldest in the world and one of the newest.

The first vines were planted by Dutch settlers to fight scurvy in the Cape at the southern tip of Africa in the 17th Century. It is said that Napoleon in exile soothed his troubled soul with the help of the legendary dessert wines from this region. Winemaking thrived in South Africa until Apartheid forced the local industry into the doldrums. During the Apartheid era, from 1948 until 1994, the government dictated everything, including what vines would be cultivated. Wine growers were forced to work in isolation from the evolution that benefited the rest of the wine world in the latter part of the 20th Century.

After the end of Apartheid, this wine region was born again. Since South Africa rejoined the international wine community, some of the Black laborers who formerly worked the vines have become vineyard owners themselves.

2009 Tokara Reserve Chardonnay

In 2004, the Soweto Wine Festival was initiated in South Africa’s premier township and a whole new audience of wine drinkers were welcomed into the fold. We’ve been delighted to note that in the 15 years since we moved from South Africa to a coastal town in Florida, South African wines have been popping up on discerning wine lists across America. South Africa now boasts over 7,000 wines and is well on its way to making up for those years in the wine wilderness.

At its best, South African wine can represent a remarkable fusion of Old and New World styles, reflecting the forward sunniness reminiscent of Australian wine while still retaining the traditional structure of the classic French style. Neal Martin of The Wine Advocate named numerous South African wines in his recently published listing of The Most Memorable Wines of 2011, including the 2006 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance Natural Sweet Wine, the 2009 Tokara Reserve Collection Stellenbosch Chardonnay, and, as the Surprise of the Year, a 1961 Lanzerac Pinotage.

Grandpa George’s Pickled Fish

Grandpa George's Pickled Fish

My grandfather lived a life of excess in South Africa. He worked first at panning gold, then as a miner before finally being ordained as an Anglican priest. Grandpa George used to feed me bits of fat and sips of cream as well as crushed up mint leaves that grew like weeds around every tap in his garden. He was a creative cook who delighted in presenting us with his exotic, spicy, fragrant concoctions every Sunday after his sermon. I credit my grandfather for my love of food (and wine). Here is my mother’s version of my grandfather’s recipe for pickled fish. My suggested wine pairing: Mulderbosch 2008 Sauvignon Blanc from Stellenbosch.

Granny Donny’s Bobotie.

My grandmother is the arbiter of nurture and comfort in a household of dramatic, creative, and sensitive characters that comprise our family. I remember eating grilled cheese and tomato sandwiches with her while watching soap operas in rare moments of mid-morning calm. My grandmother’s bobotie is the dish that I would pick as my last meal on earth if given the choice. Bobotie is a popular and traditional South African dish with a highly contested origin and a hotly debated ingredient list so this version is hardly definitive, but absolutely delicious. Suggested wine pairing: Boekenhoutskloof Syrah.

Curried Pickled Fish

4 pounds firm white fish (cod, kingklip, or similar) cleaned and filleted Sunflower Oil  Salt and Pepper

2 cups water

3 cups malt vinegar

1 cup sugar

3 tablespoons medium curry powder

1 tablespoon turmeric

6 medium white onions peeled and sliced into rings 4tsp salt

8 lemon or bay leaves

1 tablespoon allspice

12 whole black peppercorns

2 tablespoons flour

Cut fish into pieces approximately 3″x2″ and pack into an oiled casserole dish. Sprinkle fish with salt and pepper, brush with sunflower oil and bake in 350 F oven for 30 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool slightly before carefully removing fish pieces with a slotted spoon to a clean flat plate. Set aside. While fish is baking, cook curry sauce. Mix water, vinegar, sugar, curry powder, turmeric, onion rings, salt, bay or lemon leaves, allspice and peppercorns in a large saucepan. Bring just to a boil over high heat then reduce to low and cook for 30 minutes. Onions should not be allowed to become mushy. After about 25 minutes, mix flour to a smooth paste with some water and add to sauce. Bring to a boil while stirring, then simmer for 3-4 minutes before removing from heat. Place fish in a glass dish and cover completely with the warm sauce. Cool then cover dish and refrigerate for a day or 2 before serving. Flavor improves and will keep for up to two weeks in the refrigerator. Serve with buttered bread and a green salad. Serves 8 – 10.

Bobotie

Bobotie

1 slice white or brown bread (with crust)
8 oz milk
2 pounds lean ground beef OR mutton
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons sunflower oil
1 large white or yellow onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 tsp turmeric
1 tsp coriander
½ cup seedless raisins (preferably golden, or sultana)
1 tablespoon apricot jam
1 tablespoons fruit chutney (Mrs H.S. Ball’s – you can find it at British shops in the US – or any other kind will do)
2 tabespoons lemon juice

3 or 4 bay or lemon leaves

½ cup flaked blanched almonds
3 eggs

Soak bread in milk for a few minutes, then squeeze the bread dry (reserving milk) and mix bread into the ground beef together with half the salt and pepper.

Add oil to a large saucepan and saute onion, curry powder, turmeric and coriander over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add  ground beef mixture to the pan and brown over medium heat for a further 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add remaining salt and pepper, raisins, apricot jam, fruit chutney and lemon juice to the pan and stir carefully.

Spoon mixture into a large oblong casserole dish, smoothing and leveling the surface. Insert bay or lemon leaves and almonds into surface of meat mixture. Beat eggs with reserved milk (use additional milk to make up 8 oz if necessary) and pour over surface of dish. Carefully place dish into an oven pan filled with half an inch of hot water and bake covered loosely with foil at 350 degrees F for 1 ½ hours. Carefully add hot water to pan if necessary.

Serve with yellow rice and offer sliced bananas and fruit chutney on the side. (Serves 4 – 6)

Yellow Rice with Raisins

2 cups white or brown rice
4 cups water
Salt
1 ½ teaspoon turmeric
Pinch sugar
1 tsp butter
½ cup seedless dark raisins

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low/medium and cover with a lid. Cook for about 25 minutes, or until all water has evaporated and rice is tender.

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Stewart Sterns

When my friend Stewart Stearns retired from a long and illustrious career as head of our local community foundation, he surrendered to the serious surgery he had been putting off. While he was recovering (and dealing with the attending boredom of healing), another friend and fellow foundation professional visited him and suggested he organize his recipes and do something with them.

He thought the idea idiotic. But, days passed and his reading list dwindled. TV and music failed to entertain and about two weeks later his daughter called from Colorado wanting a family recipe she couldn’t locate. In fact, she wanted a few. Stew, an adventurous cook and a world traveler, found the recipes she asked for and began to revisit his friend’s idea of collecting all his time-tested recipes and doing something with them.

Long story short, Stewart wrote a cookbook. He included besides his family recipes, photos of friends and family and a short paragraph accompanying each recipe about its origins along with tips for success when making the dish. What Stew realized when his book was about to go to press was that he had written an autobiography, a genealogy, travel log, a love letter to his wife Marji and their two children, and a homage to the places and people that contributed to his event-filled life.

www.cookbookpeople.com

He complied his spiral-bound, full-color book with a computer program that did the layout, inserted the photos he scanned in, supplied a cover and a table of contents. This self-published effort cost Stewart $500 for 50 copies. He called his book La Vida es La Comida (Life is Food). He gave his book to family and friends this year as a holiday gift. Now it turns out he doesn’t have enough. Friends of his friends saw the book and asked to buy a copy. Other people contacted him and asked how he did it because they want to do it too. Stewart used a software package from The Cookbook People (cookbookpeople.com), but there are other available sources to explore online.

Bottom line, you can produce a family cookbook too. And you should. If you love to cook and have a tantalizing supply of family recipes, gather them up. If you have stories to go along with the recipes and photos you’ve saved over the years, and good tips for home cooks, then there is every reason to compile your own original cookbook.

So many of our most cherished memories are made at the table and in the kitchen. As you begin this new year, make 2012 a time of organizing your recipes and recollecting the times you shared with others eating the food from your kitchen. I bet there’s a cookbook in you just waiting to emerge. Here’s a recipe to try from Stewart’s captivating cookbook.

Dobladas

(“When we lived in Guatemala, this was one of the first authentic Guatemalan dishes we learned about. We prefer cheddar cheese when we make it at home in the US today.” Stewart Stearns)

1 cup farmer cheese

1 small red bell pepper, finely chopped

1 small onion, finely chopped

½ teaspoon pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt

10 corn tortillas

¼ cup olive oil

Mix cheese, pepper, onion, black pepper and salt together. Put 1 heaping tablespoon of the cheese mixture on the lower half of a tortilla and fold over to make a half-moon shape. Press lightly. Heat oil in a skillet and fry until crisp on both sides. Drain on paper towel and serve warm.

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Plates. Think about decorated china dinnerware patterns. The ones that look as though the food is already on the plate? Low calorie diet all right. But way too fussy for me.

Bone china, the finest plateware to serve on and eat from, isn’t just a random term. It actually refers to the bone(s) in its composition. Bone china evolved in Europe in the 1750s in a porcelain factory, close to London’s slaughterhouses. Presto, a source of bones. By experimenting with blending bone-ash into a porcelain formula, English bone china came close to replicating the quality and look of prized Chinese porcelain.

About 40 years later, Josiah Spode advanced the formula by calcinating all of the ingredients that make up bone china rather than calcining only the bones. (Calcining. Go ahead. Look this one up. It means heating to about 1200-degrees centigrade. Not to be done in your microwave.) Today bone china is roughly the same formula of about 50% bone and 25% stone and 25% clay. And cattle bone is still preferred for its lower iron content. Got Moo, anyone?

Actually the “Got Moo” color is the only color dinnerware to own, I say so and I’m backed up by nearly all professional chefs in the world. Yes, white plates. Only white plates. Round or square, up to you. Just think. Here you’ve spent time and talent making this great meal. The flavors, the aroma, the texture and the garnish. Perfecto. Now you want to present your masterpiece on a blank canvas, the pristine white plate. Artists don’t paint on a patterned canvas. You’re an artist of the kitchen. Use white plates.

Good Kitchen Design Elements. I once lived in a house with the wall switches at 32 inches off the floor. Not at 42 inches, the standard. They fell at about your hand level. Easy. And the wall outlets were 8 inches off the floor and horizontal, so power cords’ lovely spaghetti patterns were minimized. No law says they can’t be. Just rise above your tradition-bound electrician. Why does the garbage disposal switch end up two cabinets away? And on your left since you’re right handed? Or behind the blender? Speak up in the design process when you are renovating or building. Things that you use everyday should be conveniently placed. It’s a luxury every cook should experience.

What not to put in a disposal. To make your plumber’s heart go pitta-pat in anticipation of a $ervice call, dump coffee grounds and/or egg shells in. Artichoke leaves and celery will mess things up admirably. And animal parts too, as the fats will stick to the sides and gum up the works. (Especially chicken skins!) My plumber prefers that you do one, or preferably all, of these things on a weekend as those are double-labor rate days.

To avoid seeing Ron on a regular basis, use cold water for the grinding process and for the 30 seconds after the grim crunching stops. Once a month, pour in a load of ice cubes to keep the blades sharper. Also monthly, a mix of baking soda and water, or squiggle in a combo of dish detergent and really hot water to keep the disposals’ walls clean and fragrant. Or don’t. Plumber Ron is on call 24/7. Just fish all of the dirty dishes out of sink before he gets there.

V-design for the fridge. The Philco “V” refrigerator was the first (and only) refrigerator with a door that can open to either side depending on which way the giant chrome V handle is pulled. The “Vee” was designed by the same designer who in 1939 first used white on a Maytag washer rather than speckled gray/green. The “Vee” was Philco’s most expensive 1953 model, but many saw it as a weird novelty. In 18 months the model was gone. (Now they fetch $1,200 from collectors, the price of a 1953 Ford!)

Design “V” returns?  What with the kitchen becoming a gathering place and the traditional “triangle between the refrigerator/sink/range” getting longer, and not so rigid any more, wonder if someone might want to revisit Philco 1953? Royalty checks to the SVP Fund.

Design energy And while talking about newer features, bottom freezers do make a lot of energy sense. Cold air sinks, so every time you open your side-by-side refrigerator/freezer, all the frozen air falls out. This chills the sleeping dog. So if you take forever to make up your mind as to whether dinner is frozen peas, goose pate or to make a dinner reservation, a bottom drawer is the way to go to save energy. Ditto for door water/ice dispensers that also save energy.

Knives & Forks. When replacing your flatware, try it out first. Maybe just buy one setting. At least hand test it for weight, balance and how it feels in your hand. The current flatware in our house is “handle heavy” so the utensils tend to fall out of the plate. In general, flatware today is bigger and heavier than a decade ago. If you want to see how much bigger, get out a sterling fork from your grandmother’s silver chest and compare it with one today. Are our hands that much bigger today to need such a fork? The “hotel” silver look is prized today and places such as Pottery Barn and Williams Sonoma are in the vanguard of the trend. Which is the best stainless flatware? Chrome and nickel are added to iron to earn the name stainless. Not exactly accurate is that word but your man-servant won’t have to polish it. The metals numbered #301, 302, 304 (the old 18/8), resist bending a little better. The #316 (old 18/10) stainless steel, has a bit higher chrome and nickel percentage added, plus 2-3% molybdenum, which increases the resistance to pitting and corrosion. I say go with #316 unless you pry jar caps off with your spoons like someone I know. (And nothing will save the utensils dumped into your disposal. Nothing. Call Ron. Again.)

Now I’ve shared my domestic kitchens concerns, I’ll have a Happy New Year and I hope all you cooks and eaters will too. In spite of what my mother-in-law will tell you I do not get kickbacks from Ron the plumber.

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